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Julianne

Between the Covers: Women’s Magazines and their Readers, at The Women’s Library

August 6, 2009 By Julianne

Did you know the first women’s magazine was published in 1693? It was called The Ladies’ Mercury and was a spinoff from another periodical called The Athenian Mercury, which published the first advice columns. The Ladies’ Mercury was only published for four weeks, however, and every other women’s magazine was just as short lived until the Industrial Revolution.

As more and more factories opened in British cities, increasing numbers of working-class women chose not to enter domestic service, and work in factories instead, where the conditions were better. Middle-class women, whose families could not afford to pay their servants better, suddenly found themselves having to run households and do cleaning, cooking, and other domestic work themselves, things which they would have never been taught by their mothers. This is where women’s magazines took off – they were filled with advice and instructional articles aimed at these women to help them manage their new roles.

As increasing numbers of women became literate, the numbers of women’s magazines widened and the topics featured became more diverse. At The Women’s Library, a couple of weeks ago, I visited the current exhibition Between the Covers: Women’s Magazines and their Readers, and I saw examples of these early magazines: one for Christian women, with articles and columns mixed in with hymn lyrics and passages from the Bible; a couple of magazines for burgeoning feminists; magazines which featured recipes and maths problems within the same covers; magazines the size of large books; and flimsy pamphlets originally costing a fraction of a penny. There are also plenty of examples from the 20th and 21st centuries on display, including a wall featuring covers from every edition of Cosmopolitan published one month in 2008. This was really interesting – most of the front-cover models were white, some of their poses were eerily similar, and only three of the women were smiling. The only grin that looked genuine belonged to the woman on Cosmo Taiwan. Most of the headlines mentioned sex, and the more modestly the model was dressed, the more she stood out – there were a lot of dresses cut in a V to the navel that month!

I found this exhibition fascinating. It isn’t arranged chronologically; instead it is laid out in several sections, so you can compare magazines through the ages and their attitudes towards the lives of women, how they dealt with the need to feature advertisements, and how developments in technology have changed the way they are produced and read. It’s clear that in recent times adult women’s magazines have become a lot less political, although magazines for teenage girls have definitely improved – the first were entirely devoted to idolising pop stars and silly romantic stories such as ‘Love in the Launderette’.

As well as the magazines on display, there are several interactive features of this exhibition. You can listen to interviews with various women involved in publishing magazines today, play a game to see if you can guess the magazine from its headlines (I only got one right!), answer a ‘How Liberated Are You?’ quiz from a 1978 edition of Cosmopolitan, and watch Talking Magazines, a film featuring a range women from Tower Hamlets (a borough of London) talk about the magazines they read and how they feel about them. There is also a reading area stocked with magazines from the past and present, including a few handmade zines and foreign titles. The Women’s Library has an enormous collection of magazines, so although most of the items in the exhibition are behind glass, there are many more available in the reading room upstairs (free to join and use) that you can actually touch and properly read.

I really enjoyed visiting Between the Covers, I totally geeked out and spent hours going around and looking at everything. I would recommend it to everyone who has ever loved or hated a women’s magazine, and most especially to bloggers – lots of the questions this exhibition raises are relevant to us.

Readers who live in London, or who will be visiting before 29th August 2009, should definitely pop in and check this exhibition out. Entry is free, and The Women’s Library is a really lovely building. 14-18 year old women can also join a short course in MagaZine Making from 10th – 14th August.

I liked the review of Between the Covers at Uplift Magazine, check it out if you would like to read more opinion on this exhibition.

Filed Under: Uncategorized Tagged With: event, exhibition, london metropolitan university, magazines, women's library, zines

Glamorous Witches

July 30, 2009 By Julianne

At the start of July, Wookey Hole Caves in Somerset, England, announced that they were looking for a new witch to live in their caves and entertain tourists, after their previous witch had retired. The new witch, they said, must be able to cackle, and must not be allergic to cats.

3,124 people applied, 278 suggested their mothers-in-law (nice), and 23 church groups sent letters of protest. 300 people made it to the auditions, video footage from them can be seen here, and here. The job was finally given to former estate agent Carole Bohanan, who has reinvented herself as family-friendly glamorous witch Carla Calamity. Picture here, interview video here, handover-of-the-broom ceremony here! Doesn’t she look fabulous? Stripy tights, corset, gorgeous scarf, and that hat! Puts all my half-hearted witch costumes at Halloween to shame. I think I’ll go as her this year!

Looking at her picture in another commuter’s copy of the Metro last week, I started to think of all the variations of witch costume that I could, and then today I spent some time writing descriptions and when I felt inspired, putting outfits together on Polyvore. Perfect way to spend a Sunday!

Carla Calamity
Just add a stripy scarf and wind some tulle around a plain pointy hat. According to her Twitter, her corset is from Flitterbat, but I think you could create a similar look with several belts.
Carla Calamity


Designer Witch
This witch is the most powerful of all – she can magic herself up endless money and defend herself from would-be muggers. She doesn’t wear a pointy hat – you can’t get those in boutiques, but she does ride a broomstick – limousines are so last season, darling.
Designer Witch

Charmed Witch
Just wear a pair of blue jeans and a fancy pastel-coloured top.

Hogwarts Witch
Charmed Knits has patterns for all the clothing you’d need to start the new term at Hogwarts. Sweaters, socks, scarves, hats, robes, even owls. I personally have no desire to have my own Hogwarts uniform, but I looked through it in the library and it seems like a really useful and fun book for those who do.

The Worst Witch
White shirt (grey for The New Worst Witch), pinafore, diagonally striped black & white tie, black tights, ‘sensible’ shoes.

Miss Hardbroom
Black cardigan or jacket zipped up to your chin, hair in a bun/Croydon facelift, dark red lipstick, scowl.

Fairy Witch
For those who can’t make up their minds/think witches should have wings and glitter.
Fairy Witch

The Witches’ Cat The Cat That Owns The Witch*
The Designer Witch needs a well-dressed familiar, and I thought this post was rather lacking in purple up to this point.

The Witches' Cat/The Cat That Owns The Witch

*because of course, there’s no such thing as a cat owner 😉

Can you think of any more variations on this theme? I thought about doing Polyvores for the witches from Hocus Pocus and Eglantine Price from Bedknobs and Broomsticks, but I don’t own a copy of either film and I couldn’t find any good pictures to work from.

Filed Under: Fashion and Style Tagged With: cat, costumes, faerie, fashion, glamorous witches, goth, gothic, halloween, knitting, outfits, purple, stripes, style, witch

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Hi! I'm Julianne and I have so many different passions I have to be relentlessly organised to keep track of them all! On this blog I document my current obsessions and share my tips for juggling multiple interests while maintaining your creative energy. I believe that advanced planning brings advanced peace of mind - so join me, and plan to succeed in everything you do! More...

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